Becoming shrimp… When food becomes thought

 Released from their steel cage

Released from their steel cage

The headlines of the newspapers might read that the restaurant business has been the biggest creator of jobs in Denmark during a time of crisis. (Around 7500 since 2009, three times as much as the much cherished pharmaceutical sector in Denmark.) But not all that glimmers is gold. If we are to believe Redzepi it has […]

From Qualities to Constituents

From Qualities to Constituents

Steven Shapin might be best known for his fascinating Leviathan and the Air-Pump: Hobbes, Boyle, and the Experimental Life, the book he wrote together with Simon Schaffer. But apart from examining the debate between Robert Boyle and Thomas Hobbes over Boyle’s air-pump experiments in the 1660s, Shapin is also interested in dietetics, that is the body […]

Like being born again

Like being born again

So far Michelin inspectors only safely stayed within the corridor they secured from Copenhagen, Oslo to Stockholm and reported to their head office through their Michelin Guide for the Main Cities of Europe. But now they seem bold enough to enter terra incognita and stratify the culinary even more and finally bring the vikings before their […]

Gateway to the culinary universe

Gateway to the culinary universe

A small salute to a book store in Toronto. While cookbooks and everything food related seems to be a booming business, at least on the surface of it, good cookbook stores aren’t easy to find. And an independent bookstore like the beloved the cookbook store in Toronto is a precious germ among this rare breed. […]

Dan Barber on how to keep fish on the menu

Dan Barber on how to keep fish on the menu

Dan Barber, co-owner and executive chef of Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, gave an entertaining and compelling talk at the TED2010 about how he fell in love with a Miguel’s fish. And Dan Barber again at TED but now with a A foie gras parable:

Michael Pollan - In Defense of Food

Michael Pollan – In Defense of Food

Not only is Michael Pollan an incredibly good writer, witty and informed, and not only does he write about what matters more than ever in the era that man has become a cosmological factor, but most of all he seems to relentlessly take on every opportunity to speak about food and make us think about […]

Breakfast with René Redzepi

Breakfast with René Redzepi

With the rise of the celebrity chef comes this weird thing of human interest. Suddenly every biographical fart seems to be of unequivocal importance. They go down like hot steaming porridge on a cold winter morning. But they also are like sprinkles in the eyes as French historian Michel Foucault knew all too well. And […]

Tacos al pastor

Tacos al pastor

It takes some guts to go on stage and admit “I’m not fucking okay.” At Mesamérica 2013 René Redzepi got up and gave his personal story of how he was close to a burn out and what got him out of it. He gave a similar talk at the terroir symposium in early 2013. Only […]

Inoculate in order to complicate

Inoculate in order to complicate

Eating at Noma isn’t what it used to be. But it’s just the better for it. While the chef’s in the early years of Noma’s existence devoted themselves to discovering what their surroundings had to offer, finding a whole array of new produce in nature to add to the menu and uncovering the potential of […]

The chef's table at Restaurant Frantzén

The chef’s table at Restaurant Frantzén

As from the first of May 2013, Daniel Lindeberg, the talented pastry chef that made up the second half of Restaurant Frantzén/Lindeberg (in 2011 still the one to watch), left the restaurant in order to pursue the dream of opening a bakery in Nacka. If you happen to know an interesting space which he could […]

Gilles Deleuze - Le travail de l' Affect dans l' éthique de Spinoza - 1978

Gilles Deleuze – Le travail de l’ Affect dans l’ éthique de Spinoza – 1978

Deleuze, Gilles & Felix Guattari – A Thousand Plateaus, p.43 One might not notice it at first but there a strong Spinozistic undercurrent in most of noma’s dishes, so much so that one might call René Redzepi a Danish Spinozist gastro-ethologist, just like the famous Professor Challenger, the man of overpowering personality, in size and […]

Terroir Symposium 2013

Terroir Symposium 2013

René Redzepi gave the keynote address at the Terroir Symposium 2013 in Toronto, Canada. He speaks frankly about how his memory of food from his childhood and his love of food that got ignited through a chicken cashew dish in cooking school got him through a rough patch in his carrier as the burden of […]

Nordic umami

Nordic umami

After first figuring out what kind of plants and herbs the Nordic actually harbors that could be summoned to the call of deliciousness the taste buds of René Redzepi and his fellow companions at the Kitchen for Intuition and the shipmates at the Nordic Food Lab have turned to insects and microbes. And as Felder, […]

Noma's Saturday Night Projects

Noma’s Saturday Night Projects

If one wanders why on a saturday night, way after midnight, the light is still on at noma, your best chance is that some of the chefs are trying to crack a hard question: “what is it that I like about food?” While everyone else is either going to sleep or hanging around town they […]

Think of a duck getting shot

Think of a duck getting shot

In February 2012 René Redzepi gave a talk at the Design Indaba conference 2012 in Cape Town, South Africa. It’s worth watching for the small half hour it takes. Apart from telling the story of noma the talk also deals with how they conceive new dishes. In this case it features a duck (it might […]

Fäviken Magasinet

Fäviken Magasinet

Over at Good food revolution they put up a nice little film that captures some of the spirit of Fäviken Magasinet. In the interview chef Magnus Nilsson reflects on the difficulties of giving the style of cooking at Fäviken Magasinet a name. While New Nordic Cuisine might have become the customary name to denote cooking […]

It’s a bear pond… totally different

It’s a bear pond… totally different

You gotta love this guy. And next time I hit Tokyo, he’ll be on my list. For it’s … Not only barrista… Not only science… Not only data… Not only experience… Not only hippy… It’s a classic. It’s a bear pond… totally different. But what is most interesting in a culture that goes to the […]

Staff meal

Staff meal

Like Mohammed Ali did in the ring, a chef needs to dance around in the kitchen ready for another round. For that the staff meal has to make you feel light. It has to be delicious, well flavored, cooked with patience and commitment, not rich on protein and more vegetable based. It must consist of […]

Entre les Bras

Entre les Bras

In 2009 Michel Bras thought it was time to pass the reign over his three Michelin star restaurant Bras over to his son Sébastien. Paul Lacoste made the documentary Entre les Bras about this deciding moment in both of their careers. How it is to follow in the footsteps of a great chef and how […]

From HARDtalk to hard-to-watch

From HARDtalk to hard-to-watch

It is both amusing and disturbing to see how a title of a TV program backfires. Take the “hard-hitting flagship news program” HARDtalk from the BBC with Stephen Sackur. A half hour program with “in-depth interviews with hard-hitting questions and sensitive topics” that is “the result of detailed research and in-depth investigations”. (Obviously not my […]

Joan Gussow

Joan Gussow

There is something disarming about Joan Gussow which always makes it a pleasure to listen to her. Even more so to what she has been telling us for the last four decades. She has been at the beginning of what for a lack of a better word is called the food movement. Being among the […]

Kobe and the Sea | Ben Shewry

Kobe and the Sea | Ben Shewry

Kobe and the Sea is a beautiful short movie where Ben Shewry of restaurant Attica shares with his son Kobe the bond he had with his own father and the sea. How his own dad taught him to appreciate nature and not to take more than you need. And how the Abalone sea snail is […]

From Haute Cuisine to soft matter

From Haute Cuisine to soft matter

Harold McGee kicked off the second series of the Science & Cooking Public Lectures at Harvard University on the 6th of September. And properly academic one starts with the context of the relationship between food and science. If the conjunction between food and science leads to a transformation of haute cuisine to soft matter, as […]

Released from their steel cage

The headlines of the newspapers might read that the restaurant business has been the biggest creator of jobs in Denmark during a time of crisis. (Around 7500 since 2009, three times as much as the much cherished pharmaceutical sector in Denmark.) But not all that glimmers is gold. If we are to believe Redzepi it has […]

From Qualities to Constituents

Steven Shapin might be best known for his fascinating Leviathan and the Air-Pump: Hobbes, Boyle, and the Experimental Life, the book he wrote together with Simon Schaffer. But apart from examining the debate between Robert Boyle and Thomas Hobbes over Boyle’s air-pump experiments in the 1660s, Shapin is also interested in dietetics, that is the body […]

Like being born again

So far Michelin inspectors only safely stayed within the corridor they secured from Copenhagen, Oslo to Stockholm and reported to their head office through their Michelin Guide for the Main Cities of Europe. But now they seem bold enough to enter terra incognita and stratify the culinary even more and finally bring the vikings before their […]

Gateway to the culinary universe

A small salute to a book store in Toronto. While cookbooks and everything food related seems to be a booming business, at least on the surface of it, good cookbook stores aren’t easy to find. And an independent bookstore like the beloved the cookbook store in Toronto is a precious germ among this rare breed. […]

Dan Barber on how to keep fish on the menu

Dan Barber, co-owner and executive chef of Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, gave an entertaining and compelling talk at the TED2010 about how he fell in love with a Miguel’s fish. And Dan Barber again at TED but now with a A foie gras parable:

Michael Pollan – In Defense of Food

Not only is Michael Pollan an incredibly good writer, witty and informed, and not only does he write about what matters more than ever in the era that man has become a cosmological factor, but most of all he seems to relentlessly take on every opportunity to speak about food and make us think about […]